Diamonds Shapes

Diamond shape refers to the pattern of the cut and polished diamond when viewed from the top.

Diamond Shapes

Choosing the right shape is a matter of taste; there's no wrong or right, just as expressing your love is individual. Selecting your diamond's shape reflects your unique relationship.

"Shape" and "cut" describe completely different characteristics of the diamond.

Shape is often confused with "cut", which describes the diamond when viewed from its side.

Side View of Diamond or "cut"
(All shapes will have a side view similar to this)


The round, sometimes called round-brilliant, is the most popular shape.
Devotion Round is a more brilliant variation of a standard 58 facet with a different quantity (70) and arrangement of facets. The Devotion round is patented and cut exclusively for Perrywinkle’s. Most people prefer the sparkle, brilliance, and fire in a Devotion round over a traditional round brilliant when compared side-by-side.


Shapes other than round are called fancy shaped. When selecting a fancy-shape, the gracefulness of its pattern is the key to a beautiful diamond. Very few diamonds have a pleasing crisp shape. Perrywinkle’s diamonds are more pleasing than ones you’ll see elsewhere. The shape should not be stretched or squashed; naturally occurring shadows should not be too dark or overpower the diamond's surface so that its brilliance will be reflecting from the highest possible percentage of its surface area. This is especially important in ovals, marquises, pears, or heart shaped diamond since there is a naturally occurring shadow across the center of the surface in the shape of a bowtie.

The bowtie (or shadowing) is not a defect but rather a consequence of cutting the "rough" diamond crystal into those particular shapes. Its name comes from the shape of the shadowed area looking just like the shape of a man's bowtie. Now that you've learned about it you'll readily see it and wonder why you hadn't noticed it before if you’ve already viewed diamonds in these shapes. A bowtie is not desirable if there were a choice since it lacks brightness but it's simply part of the characteristic of certain fancy shapes. The more beautiful diamond the easier it is to see the contrast between the amazing brightness versus the shadowy bowtie.

The bowtie should remain small so that the shadow does not overpower the surface area of the diamond.

Fancy shapes cost more than rounds when under ½ carat but less than rounds when over ½ carat due the fact that it takes more time to cut them but they retain more of the weight from the "raw" diamond crystal. Fancy shapes look larger than rounds of equal carat weight.

Princess cuts are square or rectangle although squares command a premium. A Princess cut’s lineage goes back to an antique cut developed in Johannesburg called the Barion cut. It is the most popular of the fancy-shaped diamonds. When properly cut it is similar in brightness, sparkle, and fire to a round brilliant cut diamond.
Devotion Square is a variation of a standard princess with a different quantity (93) and arrangement of facets. The diamond is patented and cut exclusively for Perrywinkle’s. Most people prefer the sparkle, brilliance, and fire in a Devotion square and its cut corners over the traditional princess when compared side-by-side.
Emerald cut gets its name due the method of cutting with 25 facets was originally used for May’s birthstone. Emerald Cuts look more traditional than other shapes due the "steps" along the perimeter resembling the entry to grand pavilion. They are usually rectangular but can sometimes be square in shape. The imperfections are easier to see due to their large "window" into the stone so higher clarity grades are necessary. Their appearance has more of a "shimmer" and less brilliant than other square or rectangle shapes. Expert polishing is critical due to the easy-to-see-through large top surface.
Asscher cuts are similar to Emerald cut except their shape is like a modified stop sign. The cut was designed by Joseph Asscher in 1902. Original antique Asscher cuts are rare and sought after. Modern Asscher cuts have more facets, a larger table, and smaller cut corners than their vintage counterparts. The resurgence of the art deco styling with hand engraving has recently made them more popular.
Cushion cut is a cross between a rectangle and a round with a vintage lineage. From the1830's to the 1890’s this was the style that most diamonds were cut to. It is also referred to as the "candlelight diamond" cut because it was originally cut before electricity. Modern cushion cuts are cut the same vintage ones, albeit with better polish, symmetry and silhouettes.
Devotion cushion is an improved variation of a traditional cushion but possessing far more brilliance. It is cut to exact square dimensions with 93 facets. It is patented and cut exclusively for Perrywinkle’s. Most people prefer the sparkle, brilliance, and fire in a Devotion cushion versus the traditional cushion cut.
Ovals are elongated round brilliant cuts. The proper length to width ratio, is about 1.5 to 1, which will give it the most graceful look. Since it contains a bowtie it is important that the dimension is proper so that the bowtie does not overpower and dominate the surface of the diamond. A properly-cut oval has similar brilliance and sparkle to that of a round cut stone.
Marquise shapes have been the diamond of choice for royalty. Its name comes from Louis XIV’s mistress, the Marquise de Montespan. Its length to width ratio should be in the range of 2 to 1 for maximum brilliance and gracefulness. The "bowtie" should not overpower or dominate the surface of the diamond.
Pear shape is a combination of ovals and marquise cuts. It is shaped like an upside-down teardrop. Excellent symmetry ensures even sparkle, especially in the point. Proper length to width ratio is in the range of 1.65 to 1. The teardrop should be pleasing and the "bowtie" should not overpower and dominate the surface of the diamond.
Heart shapes personify romance. What is more romantic than a diamond heart? Contrary to online misinformation, the heart shape should not look like a pear shape diamond with the top notched out. Its shape and design is different and more challenging than a pear shape. When looking for proper heart shaped stone, symmetry is very important, as is the proper shape of the "lobes". All heart shapes contain a bowtie.